The Best Mashed Sweet Potatoes Recipe (2024)

Why It Works

  • Browning butter packs in tons of flavor, without dulling the sweet potatoes.
  • Slow-roasting the sweet potatoes activates endogenous enzymes that bring out their natural sweetness.
  • A touch of maple syrup, butter, and a bit of chopped thyme are the only embellishments these naturally sweet sweet potatoes need.

Have you ever wondered why sweet potatoes are so darn insecure? They come to the table hidden under a blanket of marshmallows or a sticky-sweet layer of sugary syrup. You eat them and taste only cinnamon and nutmeg, the natural aroma of the sweet potato buried underneath layers of spices. I often feel like sweet potatoes are that friend who you just want to sit down to tell them they don'tneedall that makeup or fussy fashion to be at their best.

Poke around and you'll find recipes forstreusel-topped casserolesthat look more like dessert. You'll findrecipes that call for a whopping full cup of sugar. You'll bump into dishes thathide behind a mask of cream and butter. What youwon'tfind much of is a real, testing-based approach to making mashed sweet potatoes in a way that brings out the best in them, with minimal extra ingredients and a bit of good technique.

It's time to say good-bye to the days of hiding sweet potatoes behind sugar and bolted-on marshmallows. What we have here is a technique for making mashed sweet potatoes that are so sweet, rich, and packed with sweet-potato flavor, they need only the simplest of embellishments to shine.

The Science of Sweet: Converting Starches Into Sugars

Sweet potatoes, like a few other starchy tubers and gourds, have a secret hero superpower locked within them. By unlocking that superpower, you can actually make a sweet potato taste sweeter without adding any extra sugar to it. I've talked through some of this science in the past, inan article about the best roasted sweet potatoes, but it's worth a recap, as it all applies here as well:

Here's the deal: Starch is made from sugar. More precisely, starch is a polysaccharide, which means that it's a large molecule consisting of many smaller sugar molecules (in this case, glucose). The thing about sugar is that unless it's broken down to relatively simple forms, it doesn't taste sweet to us. Our tongue simply doesn't recognize it.
It helps to imagine sugar molecules as a bunch of cartoon kids. When they're all standing in a row, it's easy for us to identify them as individual kids. But stack them up on each other and throw a trench coat on 'em, and they're effectively hidden.
Now, sweet potatoes contain plenty of starch molecules. The goal when roasting them is to try to break down as many of the starch molecules as possible into sweet-tasting maltose (a sugar consisting of two glucose molecules). Pull off the trench coat and give that little stack of kids a push, if you will. We do this with the help of enzymes.


AsHarold McGeewrites inOn Food and Cooking:

"Moist sweet potato varieties sweeten during cooking thanks to the action of an enzyme that attacks starch and breaks it down. The enzyme starts to make maltose when the tightly packed starch granules absorb moisture and expand, beginning at around 135°F, and it stops when the rising heat denatures it, at around 170°F."


You see where we're going here? By holding a sweet potato in that, ahem,sweetspot between 135 and 170°F (57 and 77°C) for an extended period of time, you can actually induce it to naturally convert its starches into sugars.

To test this, I started with a half dozen sweet potatoes. I cut each one into quarters and left one of those quarters carefully wrapped in the refrigerator. The other three I encased in vacuum-sealed bags andheld in a water bathset to 145°F (63°C) for one hour, six hours, and 24 hours, respectively.* After that, I roasted them with a bit of olive oil in a hot oven until they were tender.

*For the record, most vegetables will never soften at 145°F, as pectin, the main structural compound in a vegetable's cell wall, doesn't break down until above 180°F (82°C) or so. The sous vide sweet potato quarters were still as hard-feeling as their refrigerated counterparts.

The Best Mashed Sweet Potatoes Recipe (1)

There's a direct correlation between how sweet the potatoes taste, how well they brown, and how long they've been held at 145°F. Though the sous vide potatoes actually seemed to lose a little pigment (the flesh was not as bright orange as in the refrigerated potatoes), the flavor difference was immediately apparent. A little more testing revealed that the most prominent effects occur within the first couple of hours. Any extra time the potatoes spend in the bath is incremental.

If you've got yourself agood sous vide rig, then the process here is simple: Throw your whole sweet potatoes directly into a 145°F water bath, let them rest for a few hours, then roast and mash them. If you're hell-bent on the absolute best sweet potatoes and don't have a sous vide circulator, you can easily use the beer cooler method. Just fill a cooler with water at around 170°F, add your sweet potatoes whole, put the lid on, and let them sit for a couple of hours before packing them in foil pouches and roasting for the recipe. But I wanted a method that would take advantage of this phenomenon without the need for any fancy equipment. I turned to the oven instead.

Slow-Roast for the Most Maltose

An oven is not as precisely controlled as a sous vide water bath, but I figured that with a low enough temperature, I should be able to give the potatoes a good long stay in that 135-to-170 sweet spot. Roasting potatoes at 300°F (150°C) for a couple of hours was certainly an improvement over the more standard hour in a 375°F (190°C) oven, but it still wasn't ideal—the exteriors of the potatoes just got too hot too fast.

Much better was to wrap the potatoes in a tightly sealed foil pouch. This traps in any escaping moisture, which prevents the outer layers of the potatoes from overheating as they roast. You end up with more evenly cooked and, more importantly,sweetersweet potatoes that are incredibly easy to peel. By placing the potatoes directly in a cool oven and allowing them to heat as the oven preheats, you can also enhance their enzymatic sweetening.

The foil-pouch method also allows you to add aromatics as you're roasting. A few sprigs of thyme makes for a classic pairing.

Brown Is Better: Browned Butter Adds Richness and Complexity

The Best Mashed Sweet Potatoes Recipe (2)

With perfectly sweet, tender, and easy-to-peel sweet potatoes, all that was left was a bit of fine-tuning. Thanksgiving is not the time to be shy with the butter, and there was no doubt that these potatoes would be getting some. I'd brought an early test batch over to a friend's place for an early Thanksgiving meal (we do alotof early Thanksgivings 'round here), and he commented on the sweet potatoes, asking if they contained any brown butter.

Nope, but by gum, that's a fantastic idea! The potatoes themselves get a rich, almost toffee-like complexity due to the slow roasting. Adding butter that's been cooked down until its milk solids just begin to turn brown and nutty accentuates that flavor even more.

Some folks like to add cinnamon, nutmeg, or other spices to their sweet potatoes. My theory is that they're just overcompensating for sweet potatoes cooked in a way that doesn't bring out their best flavor. We don't have that problem here. The only other additions I made before whipping them up were some salt, a little fresh thyme to complement the sprigs that I'd placed in their foil pouches, and a small dash of maple syrup to accentuate that caramel flavor even more.

What you end up with is rich and complex, with a natural built-in sweetness that is far more complex and satisfying than anything that extra sugar or a marshmallow topping could ever get you. These are sweet potatoes for true sweet-potato lovers.

The Best Mashed Sweet Potatoes Recipe (3)

November 2014

Recipe Details

The Best Mashed Sweet Potatoes

Prep15 mins

Cook2 hrs

Total2 hrs 15 mins

Serves8to 10 servings

Makes6 cups

Ingredients

  • 4 pounds (1.8kg) moist sweet potatoes, such as ruby or garnet yams (about 4 large potatoes; see notes)

  • 8 sprigsthyme, divided

  • 6 tablespoons butter (3 ounces; 85g)

  • 1/4 cup (60ml)maple syrup

  • Kosher salt

Directions

  1. Adjust oven rack to center position. Place 2 large sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil on a work surface. Working with 1 sheet at a time, place half of potatoes in center along with 3 sprigs of thyme. Fold up foil and crimp edges to seal tightly. Repeat with other half of potatoes. Transfer pouches to a rimmed baking sheet and place in oven. Set oven to 300°F (150°C). Roast until a thin skewer inserted into potatoes meets no resistance, about 2 hours. Remove potatoes from oven and set aside until cool enough to handle.

  2. Meanwhile, melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, swirling gently, until particles are pale golden brown and smell nutty. Immediately transfer to a large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Add maple syrup. Pick leaves off of remaining 2 thyme sprigs, roughly chop, and add to bowl.

  3. Peel sweet potatoes and discard skins. Add flesh to bowl with butter and syrup. Beat with whisk attachment or a handheld mixer until smooth and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Serve. See note for make-ahead suggestions.

    The Best Mashed Sweet Potatoes Recipe (4)

    The Best Mashed Sweet Potatoes Recipe (5)

Special Equipment

Rimmed baking sheet, handheld electric mixer or stand mixer

Notes

Sweet potatoes can be made even sweeter by pretreating them in a water bath to activate their enzymes. To do this with a sous vide–style circulator, set your circulator for 150°F (66°C). Place the sweet potatoes in the water bath and let circulate for 2 to 4 hours before proceeding with the recipe. To do this with a beer cooler, fill your cooler with water at 170 to 175°F (77 to 79°C). Add the potatoes, cover, and let rest for 2 to 4 hours before proceeding.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Sweet potatoes can be refrigerated for up to 5 days. To store and reheat, transfer the sweet potatoes to a heavy-duty zipper-lock bag with the air pressed out. Reheat by completely submerging the zipper-lock bag in a pot full of hot (not boiling) water, removing the bag occasionally to squeeze contents around, until fully reheated, about 30 minutes. The best way to do this is with a sous vide–style circulator set at 150°F.

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The Best Mashed Sweet Potatoes Recipe (2024)

FAQs

What makes sweet potatoes taste better? ›

So if you want a sweet, sweet potato, you have to cook it until it reaches 135–170°F (57–77°C). And you want to keep sweet potatoes in that range for as long as possible. That will maximize how sweet the potatoes taste.

How do you make Ina Garten mashed sweet potatoes? ›

Place the sweet potato meat into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment and add the orange juice, cream, butter, brown sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, salt, and pepper. Mix together until combined but not smooth and transfer to a baking dish. Bake the potatoes for 20 to 30 minutes, until heated through.

What do professional chefs use to mash potatoes? ›

The secret weapon, a good potato ricer (affiliate). This pushes the potatoes into strings, which helps them soak up every bit of the cream and achieve maximum fluffliness.

Why not to boil sweet potatoes? ›

Despite their sweet taste, these potatoes have an intermediate glycemic index (GI) level, meaning they are digested and absorbed fairly slowly, leading to a more gradual increase in blood sugar levels. But, a lot of these benefits, including nutrients and taste, can be lost by boiling sweet potatoes.

Is it better to boil or bake sweet potatoes? ›

Baking can also cause an 80% drop in vitamin A levels, twice as much as boiling. Therefore, from a nutritional standpoint, boiling rather than baking should be recommended for cooking sweet potato.

What tastes better boiled or baked sweet potatoes? ›

Why You Should Bake Sweet Potatoes Instead. While boiling makes sweet potatoes tender, it doesn't help much with their flavor. Most dishes that call for boiled sweet potatoes would be improved if you used roasted or baked sweet potatoes.

What is the tastiest sweet potato? ›

The most versatile and sweetest variation of sweet potatoes is the Beauregard. Throughout the United States, you will see this species stacked high in the grocery stores during the holiday season. Beauregard's have a bit of a stringy texture, but they stay soft: this is what makes them so popular.

Should I peel sweet potatoes before boiling? ›

There is not much difference between boiling sweet potatoes with the skins on versus peeling them, but you will get a boost of fiber and potassium if you keep the skin on. The skin also adds a subtle texture to each bite. If you're looking for a smoother mash, peel the potatoes first before boiling.

Why do you need to soak sweet potatoes before cooking? ›

TIPS & TRICKS to Make this Recipe: The main secrets to achieving that incredible crispy texture, is to soak the cut sweet potatoes in cold water for at least 30 minutes. This helps remove the starch from the sweet potatoes so they´re not limp & soggy.

How to make chef quality mashed potatoes? ›

Directions
  1. Place potatoes in a large pot and cover with salted water. Bring to a boil. ...
  2. Drain potatoes, then return to the pot. Turn heat to high and allow potatoes to dry for about 30 seconds. ...
  3. Mash potatoes with a potato masher twice around the pot, then add milk and butter. Continue to mash until smooth and fluffy.
Aug 16, 2022

Why do restaurant mashed potatoes taste better? ›

Instead of regular milk, pro chefs generally use a generous helping of buttermilk and plenty of half-and-half or (even better) heavy cream in their potatoes. If you think the bartenders up front are pouring heavy, they've got nothing on the cooks in the back who are in charge of the mashed potatoes.

Why do people add sour cream to mashed potatoes? ›

Sour cream adds a little bit of tangy flavor and a boost of richness to mashed potatoes. It's a fun change from the standard milk or cream and butter combo usually flavoring mashed taters. You can even try your hand at making homemade sour cream from heavy cream!

Why are Bob Evans Mashed Potatoes so good? ›

Made with fresh real potatoes, butter, and milk, Bob Evans Mashed Potatoes tastes like homemade. We put extra care into making our mashed potatoes rich and creamy to deliver that homemade flavor you expect.

How do you keep sweet potato mash from getting watery? ›

How Do I Make Sure My Mashed Sweet Potatoes are Not Watery? To make sure your potatoes aren't watery, don't overcook the potatoes. It's also important to drain the potatoes completely once you're done boiling them to avoid having unwanted water lingering in your pot.

Is sweet potato mash better for you than normal mash? ›

Though they can both be part of a healthy diet, sweet potatoes are generally healthier than regular potatoes, partly because of their incredibly high vitamin A content. Sweet potatoes are also lower on the glycemic index, meaning that they are less likely than regular potatoes to make your blood sugar spike.

How do you make sweet potato mash less watery? ›

I was never a huge fan of mashed sweet potatoes until I discovered a technique from Cook's Illustrated. They simmer the potatoes right in the cream rather than boiling them in water. This is a complete game changer to say the least! Instead of a watery mash, you end up with an ultra creamy texture guaranteed to please.

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