We won't beat around the bush: Homemade candies and fudge are intimidating. From a bubbling pot of screaming-hot sugar to mysterious phrase like "soft ball stage" to that, uh, bubbling pot of screaming-hot sugar, there's a lot to give any home cook pause. Here's the good news: By avoiding a few simple common mistakes, DIY candies are actually easy to make. From this moment henceforth, you shall be known as the Candyman. Or Candywoman. Whatever; let's make some candy.
1. Using the Wrong Pan
All candy and confections start by melting sugar. You'll need a heavy-bottomed saucepan with tall sides—no excuses or substitutions. Thin and flimsy aluminum isn't the best conductor of heat; it will cause portions of the sugar to burn before it's all entirely melted.
2. Stirring the Sugar
If you've ever had grainy fudge, you tasted the effects of crystallization. "Crystallization is the enemy of candies, fudge, and confections," says Claire Saffitz, senior associate food editor. Luckily, avoiding crystallization is as easy as not stirring the sugar as it melts. Instead, swirl the pot and use a wet pastry brush to wipe down the sides periodically (sugar will inevitably stick to the edges of the pot). Swirling the pot also helps distribute the heat, adjusting for any hot spots.
Chocolate Fudge. Bourbon Sugar. Yes, you want this. Photo: Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott
3. Not Using a Candy Thermometer
Sorry, you absolutely cannot eyeball this one. It's imperative you get the temperature exactly right, because how firm or pliable the candy becomes as it cools is dependent on how hot it gets in the pot. If a recipe calls for cooking the sugar until 238˚, that means 238˚ exactly. You can't, uh, fudge it. The soft ball stage, which occurs from 234-240˚, is sticky and pliable; it's used for caramel and fudge. Firm ball occurs at 242-248˚; it's used in marshmallow, meringue, and gummy candies. Hard ball is 250-266˚ and best for nougat and toffee. This complete guide to cooked sugar stages is a very handy tool to have on hand.
4. Leaving Out the Parchment Paper Lining
Candies and caramels are sticky business. In fact, one of home cooks' biggest fears in making them is that they'll adhere to the pan, becoming impossible to pry out. Make the task easier by lining the pan with parchment paper. The paper should be long enough that the edges hang over the sides. Once the candies have set, all you have to do is grip the paper and lift it up and out.
5. Skipping the Cooking Spray
"PAM everything!" says Saffitz. "When I make candies, I coat the pan, the parchment, the bowl, even the spatula with a little bit of cooking spray." This is one of the tackiest cooking tasks you can tackle, so set yourself up for success and get a little preemptively slippery.
